Materials - textiles
Textile - introduction
Protein and cellulose based textiles are susceptible to four types of deterioration.
- Organic - mold, bacteria, insects, and rodents
- Physical - ultraviolet exposure; excessive heat, mishandling, inherent
vice, aging
- Chemical - pollutants, and reactivity
- Reactive - plastic buttons, sequins, metal components oxidizing
Textile fibers should be identified in order to ensure proper storage conditions,
handling and treatment that might be needed. "Physical tests, such as
burning, quickly identify the presence of animal fibers, which do not burn
readily and shrivel into a residue of carbon. These fibers usually emit the
distinct odor of singed hair. Vegetal fibers burn easily to a fine ash. Many
fibers and hairs can also be readily identified by microscopic examination.
Animal hairs, for example, can be identified by their characteristic cuticle
patterns and medullar cross sections. Simple staining tests enable the conservator
to distinguish between the different kinds of fibers."LI
Textile - storage
- unbuffered containers lined with tissue, this aids in picking up the fabric
easily
- pad three-dimensional forms for creases etc.
- flags, tapestries, and rugs should be rolled on large diameter tube covered
with tissue and mylar; interleave with washed white cotton
- never store rolled material flat, run a dowel or rod through to hang store
- costumes with heavy attachments, bias cut, or knits
should not be hung, pad them and store them horizontally
- hangers should be covered with padding and washed muslim; hanger should
not extend past shoulder seam
- pad objects such as moccasins, hats, and garment sleeves generously with
polyethylene padding or polyester fibre filled muslim tubes; use twill tape
to make a loop for easy removal
The more you handle the material the more damage you can cause. Support the
cloth as much as possible when moving from place to place. To clean textiles
use a low suction vacuum with a screen or nylon stocking over the brush attachment.
Textile - conservation
Documentation, both photographic and written, should
record all pertinent information about the textile to be treated. The various
features and properties that should be recorded:
- the nature of the fibers
- spin of the yarn (i.e., 'Z' or 'S' twist)
- number of wefts and warps per inch (or centimeter)
- type of weaving and of dye (water-fast or soluble)
- paint
- metal threads, and any other features that may be diagnostic or of interest
Inherent vice
on going process of deterioration attributed to poor techniques and materials.
Bias cut
a line diagonal to the grain of fabric providing more give and smoother fit.
Citation
LI Hamilton, D.L. (1998). Methods of conserving underwater archaeological
material culture. Conservation Files: ANTH 605, Conservation of cultural resources
I. Nautical Archaeology Program, Texa: Texas, A&M University:
Accessed January 2003 at, <
http://nautarch.tamu.edu/class/ANTH605.>